Fashioning Africa : power and the politics of dress / Jean Allman -- 1. Remaking fashion in the Paris of the Indian Ocean : dress, performance, and the cultural construction of a cosmopolitan Zanzibari identity / Laura Fair -- 2. Dress and politics in post-World War II Abeokuta (Western Nigeria) / Judith Byfield -- 3. Nationalism without a nation : understanding the dress of Somali women in Minnesota / Heather Marie Akou -- 4. Changes in clothing and struggles over identity in colonial Western Kenya / Margaret Jean Hay -- 5. Putting on a Pano and dancing like our grandparents : nation and dress in late Colonial Luanda / Marissa Moorman -- 6. "Anti-mini militants meet modern misses" : urban style, gender, and the politics of "national culture" in 1960s Dar es Salaam, Tanzania / Andrew M. Ivaska -- 7. From khaki to Agbada : dress and political transition in Nigeria / Elisha P. Renne -- 8. "Let your fashion be in line with our Ghanaian costume" : nation, gender, and the politics of cloth-ing in Nkrumah's Ghana / Jean Allman -- 9. Dressing dangerously : miniskirts, gender relations, and sexuality in Zambia / Karen Tranberg Hansen -- 10. Fashionable traditions : the globalization of an African textile / Victoria L. Rovine -- 11. African textiles and the politics of diasporic identity-making / Boatema Boateng -- Afterword / Phyllis M. Martin